Vivian Grisogono

As Hvar is by and large a quiet place, natural sounds stand out. Much of the time birdsong is the loudest noise one can hear.

In 2011 Dubrovnik’s officials decided to mark their continuing appreciation of Kathy Wilkes’ unique contribution to their city by placing a commemorative plaque on an historic square near the Lovrijenac fortress, and renaming the square after her.

When Croatia voted ‘yes’ to joining the EU, was it a bright new dawn, or false hopes?

The so-called ‘Hektorović Palace’ in Hvar has a strange history. It dates back to the beginning of the 15th century, or the end of the 14th century at the earliest. Right up to the 20th century, the emptiness behind its impressive floral-Gothic facade and its lack of a roof made it look like a ruin, perhaps the victim of a big fire, but in fact it was simply unfinished.

Throughout Croatia, the graveyards are blessed each year on All Saints's Day, November 1st.

There are olives everywhere on Hvar during November, on the trees, piled up in crates and sacks by the paths and roads, or being transported on trailers, trucks and tractors, slow or fast, but always rattling with noisy self-assurance.